A solid eighteen carat yellow gold mechanical Cartier Tank Louis Ultra Thin with solid eighteen carat gold deployant buckle on an original lizard Cartier band. Perhaps one of the most iconic watches of all time (and certainly one that has been desired by and worn by some of the most celebrated figures of the 20th Century to this current day). In fact, it feels that this special gem of watch design is actually entering into a renaissance in its desirability and collectibility –especially original mechanical examples from this era.
The watch has all the details that Cartier lovers flock to the brand for – the Roman numeral dial with the hidden signature at the seven o’clock position, chemin de fer minute track, sword blued steel hands and a blue sapphire set winding crown. The "Paris" stamped dial is in excellent condition with no signs of crazing or damage from moisture or dirt, as can often be the case with these watches that can suffer from not being very tightly sealed. The case shows signs of light polishing over the years, but is not over polished, and all of the stamping and unique Cartier reference numbers are still visible on the case back.
This case is known as the "Ultra Thin" version, reference 96019, of the Tank Louis and differs from the classic Tank Louis, reference 78086, in size. This model measures 24mm x 30mm, as opposed to the 23mm x 30mm of the classic. The way the case is made is also different. One can notice that the retaining screws for the case back are set into the corners of the case back, as opposed to the sides of the case itself in the classic. This allows for a cleaner case visually when on the wrist.
An additional element to the ultra Thin that makes it more desirable is the caliber of movement fitted to power the watch. The classic Tank watch is powered by a manually wound, ETA 2512 caliber mechanical movement. This seventeen jewel movement features incabloc shock protection and is a fairly rudimentary, but reliable, movement that powered the vast number of Cartier watches from the mid 1970’s through to the early 1980’s. However, this version is powered by the F. Piguet caliber 21. This is a remarkable movement for a couple of different reasons; this movement was developed all the way back in 1925. It has been the basis for calibers from the likes of IWC, with the caliber 171, Rolex, with the caliber650, Patek Philippe, with the caliber175 and 177 to name but three. The additional remarkable feature is that it is still in use today! There are very few movements indeed that have remained in production for such a long time.
It is also worth noting that twenty years after its initial launch, once the original patent had expired, both Audemars Piguet caliber 2003, introduced in 1946, and then the Piaget Caliber 9P, introduced in 1957 used this caliber 21 as its inspiration carrying on the amazing work the original movement designers pioneered back in 1925.
The watch has the Cartier signature still clear on the case back, along with the unique reference number. The inside of which is fully stamped with Cartier control marks and gold assay marks. The deployant also has a full set of marks on the inside of the butterfly.
Overall, this is a wonderful example of the classic Cartier icon. A model that is increasingly in demand, and very difficult to find today A watch that worked for the likes of Jackie O. and Andy Wahol is one that cannot be left out of any serious watch collection.
