A solid fourteen carat yellow gold pocket watch chain with button hole clip. This is an exceptionally rare and beautifully made piece of jewellery from one of America's finest jewellers. Not just any jeweller. But one with a long history with some of the world's finest watch and clock makers; Tiffany & Company. From a long running relationship with Patek Philippe to making their own outstanding pocket watches this luxury retailer has long been involved in time pieces. In 1854, Tiffany signed an agreement with Patek Philippe becoming the first retailer in America to carry the best timepieces money could buy. Tiffany then began producing its own timepieces. To meet the increasing demand for sophisticated timepieces from its customers, in 1874 the company built its own factory in Geneva, Place Cornavin.
This wonderful piece is most unusual. There have been many designs developed over the years in order for a gentleman, or lady, to safely and securely carry their pocket watches. This is a design that we have not seen before. There is a small solid gold button front, behind which lies a spring clip. From here the handsome open, long link chain hangs from it with a traditional dog clip, which can freely rotate, at the end. The idea of this piece for it to sit through a button hole and rather than a simple t-bar, it has this handsome domed, button-like front that looks lovely sitting in the button hole. It would either be worn through the lapel button, with the pocket watch then sitting safely in the outside breast pocket. Or, it can also be worn through a waist coat, or vest, button and into the waist coat pocket.
The piece is fully stamped Tiffany & Co. on the dog clip Tiffany & Co. But, perhaps more remarkably, and much more interesting is the underside of the spring clip that holds the 'button' in place. There are hand engraved marks for "14 k" gold and for a patent applied for this design in 1887. This firmly dates this piece to that time.
This clip snaps open with strong force, and then snaps back with equal force. There are three 'teeth', two on one side, one on the other, that will hold the button piece firmly in place on the item of clothing. It would be very difficult to rip it off once clipped on without also taking the clothing with it!
With some incredible Tiffany pocket watches having been made over the years. This truly needs to accompany one of them. A beautiful alternative to a classic pocket watch chain.
